UltimateCity Guide Seoul
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Stories from Seoul, South Korea

Every story, long read and guide in the ULTIMATE Seoul City Guide, in one place.

Areas

Seoul, neighbourhood by neighbourhood

Nine neighbourhoods, each with its own guide: the palaces and hanok of Jongno, the shops below Namsan, the galleries of Hannam, Gangnam’s starred tables, Seongsu’s warehouses, the museums of Yongsan, the island of Yeouido, the music of Hongdae and the tower at Jamsil.

Bukchon-ro 11-gil and its hanok at blue hourNeighbourhood guideJongno & the palacesThe old capitalThe lit façade of the Myeongdong Theater at duskNeighbourhood guideMyeongdong & NamsanShops below the mountainSeoul at dusk from Namsan, the Han and the towers of the south bank lit upNeighbourhood guideHannam & ItaewonGalleries and rooftopsThe great standing Buddha of Bongeunsa looking over the temple to the towers of Samseong-dongNeighbourhood guideGangnamStars and flagshipsPalms and walkways inside the glasshouse of Seoul Botanic ParkNeighbourhood guideSeongsuWarehouses and the forest

North or south

For a first visit, stay north of the river and walk to the palaces; for shopping and dining, Gangnam. The metro makes the rest easy.

  1. Neighbourhood guideYongsanThe museums in the middle
  2. Neighbourhood guideYeouidoThe island in the Han
  3. Neighbourhood guideHongdae & MapoMusic and soup houses
  4. Neighbourhood guideJamsilThe tower by the lake

History

History & heritage

The capital of the Joseon kings, its palaces and wall, the alphabet of 1446, the twentieth century told plainly, and the city that grew along the Han.

Geunjeongjeon, the throne hall of GyeongbokgungHistory & heritageSeoul: from Hanyang to the city on the HanHanyang, the palaces and the city on the Han

Practical

Before you go

Visa-free entry and the K-ETA exemption, the AREX railway from Incheon, T-money and the metro, the palace closing days and Bukchon’s visiting hours, and three days that work for a first visit.

Gwanghwamun Square looking north to the gate and BugaksanBefore you goSeoul essentialsEntry, K-ETA, 119 and the seasonsA KTX-Cheongryong train at Seoul StationGetting aroundGetting aroundAREX, the metro and the KTXGeunjeongjeon, the throne hall of Gyeongbokgung, across its empty stone courtyard under a blue skyItinerarySeoul in three daysPalaces, museums and MinglesLotte World Tower and Seokchon Lake at nightLuxury guideLUX LivingThe finest addressesLotte World Tower above Seokchon Lake at dawnItineraryThe Gold weekendSigniel and the 81st floor
  1. ItineraryThe Platinum weekendThe Four Seasons and Mingles

Our advice

Begin at Gyeongbokgung at opening time

Begin at Gyeongbokgung at opening time, walk east through Bukchon to Changdeokgung for a garden tour, and climb Namsan for the sunset. The great sights

Day trips

Beyond Seoul

Hwaseong Fortress at Suwon to the south, the port and canal towers of Incheon to the west, Nami Island and the Garden of Morning Calm to the east, Jeonju and Busan by KTX, and the border area of the DMZ on an official tour.

The walls and a watchtower of Hwaseong Fortress in SuwonBeyond SeoulSuwonThe fortress of HwaseongTowers of Songdo reflected in the canal of Central ParkBeyond SeoulIncheon & SongdoChinatown and canal towersAutumn maples on Nami Island by the riverBeyond SeoulGapyeong & Nami IslandAutumn avenues and a gardenThe tiled roofs of Jeonju Hanok Village from the hillBeyond SeoulJeonjuThe hanok cityThe painted houses of Gamcheon Culture Village at sunsetBeyond SeoulBusanBeaches and the port
  1. Beyond SeoulThe DMZThe border area

Our advice

Walk the wall at dusk

The Naksan section of the city wall is the gentlest of the four, 3.2 km and about an hour and a half on foot: walk it at dusk, as the city lights come on. Walks in Seoul

In depth

In depth: the stories behind Seoul

Five palaces and a wall, the Korean table from Mingles to the noodle houses, celadon and white cubes, the hotels on both sides of the river, the metro and the KTX, and what a foreign buyer should know: the stories behind Seoul.

Cheonggyecheon at sunrise, with stepping stones and office towersGwanghwamun and MyeongdongChristmas in SeoulThe Gwanghwamun Market and lanterns on CheonggyecheonThe grasslands of Haneul Park, with Bukhansan on the horizonIn depth: nature & wildlifeWild SeoulGranite peaks, river islands and magpiesA bowl of mul-naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles in broth with egg and beefThe back storySeoul at the tableMingles and the noodle houses

At the table

Book the starred tables well ahead; the noodle houses take no bookings, so go early.

  1. The back storyCeladon, ink and white cubesSeoul’s arts
  2. The back storyWhere Seoul sleepsNorth or south of the river
  3. The back storyGetting aroundMetro, AREX and KTX
  4. The back storyBuying in SeoulHannam, Seongsu and the rules

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